When the smell of fish, heavy fuel oil, and seaweed hangs in the air, the harbor can’t be far away. Guided by the screeching of seagulls and my nose, I quickly find my way down to the port. The bustling activity captivates me immediately. After rather solitary weeks in the desert, the contrast could hardly be greater. Thoroughly impressed, I try to get my bearings. Dozens, if not hundreds, of small fishing boats catch my eye at once. How on earth does anyone manage to pick out a single boat from this apparent chaos?
Quite relieved that this isn’t my task – or my problem – I dive deeper into this unfamiliar world and soak up the atmosphere. The fish are processed right on the spot.
Fish of all imaginable shapes and sizes are displayed and offered for sale.
As someone who tends to avoid the water and prefers terrestrial ecosystems, I’ve of course never seen a single one of these fish alive. Thanks to the fish market, I get a glimpse into this otherwise hidden world – without having to swim or dive. It’s truly astonishing what kinds of fish are swimming around in the Atlantic!
Gradually, the sight of all this fish makes me both hungry and curious: what might freshly caught fish taste like? At the next stall, I try my luck. After negotiating the price down to half of the original and getting a handful of shrimp thrown in, I go for it. The smoke from the grills already signals from afar which places will cook your catch of the day. My excitement about the haul from the fish market doesn’t last all that long, though. The grilled fish only partly wins me over, and peeling the shrimp turns out to be rather tedious – not ideal for hungry (and impatient) mouths. At least I tried something new, and learned my lesson: I’ll stick to tajine rather than grilled fish 😉
After the somewhat disappointing fish, it’s time for something reliable: Moroccan pastries. With “Cornes de gazelles” and other treats, my frustration over the shrimp quickly fades. Refreshed and satisfied, I continue exploring the harbor. Suddenly, things get hectic: fishermen bring several sharks ashore on a cart. Keeping a bit of distance, I follow the group. Before long, they unload the largest shark, and I stop as well. I’ve never seen a shark of that size before. Judging by the excitement, I suspect this isn’t an everyday catch here either. Trying to remain as inconspicuous as possible, I snap a few photos before the shark is cut into pieces. The sight of it lying in a dirty slurry on the street briefly kills my appetite for further “culinary” adventures. Was my lunch fish lying on the street like that too?!
Completely unfazed by the commotion, a stray cat dozes nearby on a rusty crate. Like everywhere in Morocco’s cities, they are abundant here as well. In the harbor, there are always scraps of fish for them to feed on.
Perfectly relaxed, this cat has made itself comfortable right in the middle of the promenade.
Before long, however, the birds in and around the harbor draw my attention. Unnoticed by most tourists, they too are hoping for a good catch. Sometimes they even lie in wait for fish directly from the fishing boats.
At first, I hesitate to unpack my large telephoto lens amid the hustle and bustle – I don’t want to attract unnecessary attention. But after a few minutes, the temptation is too strong, and I pull it out of my backpack.
The little egrets are so focused on fishing – and so used to the many people on the walkway – that they don’t let themselves be disturbed by me. With a bit of patience, this opens up new photographic perspectives.
In a flash, the egret plunges its beak into the water, and already a small silvery fish is wriggling in it.
The little fish is barely the size of one of my beloved shrimp. Unlike me, the egret is far more skillful – with a swift movement of its beak, it swallows its prey in no time, a stark contrast to my tedious shrimp peeling. Seconds later, it is already on the lookout for the next fish. Given the size of the prey, I can well understand its eagerness for another bite.
Meanwhile, a yellow-legged gull watches the spectacle intently.
I like the city so much that I decide to stay in Essaouira for several days. Just a few weeks ago, I wouldn’t have thought it possible that I’d enjoy exploring a city this much. After my time in the desert, I truly appreciate being among people again.
Still, more exciting than heading for the most famous tourist hotspots using Google Maps is simply setting out to explore without GPS.
So I turn left, then right, then left again – always hoping to stumble upon something interesting.
As the streets grow dirtier, I see fewer and fewer tourists, until eventually there are none at all. Instead, a turkey suddenly wanders across my path.
I continue down the narrow alley. Numerous stalls offer vegetables.
Quite convenient that in Morocco, tomatoes, eggplants, zucchini, and much more are in season even in winter 😉
I had actually hoped to wander through the market as inconspicuously as possible. But with my height, skin color, and red down jacket, that’s anything but easy – I’m probably immediately recognized as a tourist. Even greeting people in Arabic with “Salam aleikum” doesn’t help much…
Of all the market stalls and shops, the Moroccan butcheries fascinate me the most. I could hardly imagine that animals are taken apart right there on the street, with the pieces stored and sold unrefrigerated. Perhaps the meat should be cooked thoroughly rather than left pink. Fortunately, tajine is typically simmered for several hours.
Besides food, all kinds of products and services are on offer. I even come across a bicycle repair shop. Though the bikes here are more sturdy workhorses than racing machines.
Luckily, my ARC8 Eero hasn’t had any issues so far. And so, after a few intense days in Essaouira, I continue my journey, setting course for Marrakesh.
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